Schmidt rotue

It was 1931 when the Schmidt brothers overcame the North face of the Matterhorn, by then considered an impossible challenge. The route first runs along the ice and snow slope that serves as a base to the wall, then follows a ramp that cuts the central part from left to right, to then emerge in the last third slightly more imposing and with a little friable soil.

The Matterhorn pyramid is unique in the Alps, aesthetic and solitary. The wall is 1200 m high and given its characteristics, we prefer to climb it in icy conditions, most likely between autumn and spring. The descent takes place through the Hornli ridge, used in summer as a normal route. In this way we can leave the bivouac material in the winter refuge and climb light.

To achieve these goals you need a great experience and excellent physical fitness. It will often be essential to make a preventive ascent to get to know each other and to assess your skills. Alternatively, we can offer you a training course to achieve your goal.

ATTENTION: it is at the discretion of the Guide to decide whether the climb requires one or more preparation trips.